- Tutorials/Cactus farming
- Manual designs
- Cactus rows
- Diagonal rows
- Piston harvester
- Automatic designs
- Efficient design
- Standard automatic
- Zero-tick design
- Planting cacti – advice PROFESSIONAL (+ schemes)
- WHAT WE ARE SELLING FOR
- HOW TO PREPARE A SUBSTRATE FOR CACTICIAN CROSSING
- INSPECT ROOTS
- CHOOSE THE POT
- CACTUS PLACE
- CACTICIAN PLACE – VIDEO
- CACTS – LANDING AND CARE: FLOWER TIPS
- Taboo for cactus
- We are preparing a bed
- It is better to underfill than pour
- Below other entries on the topic “Dacha and garden – with their own hands”
Cactus farming is the systematic planting and subsequent harvesting of cacti. Cactus farms are useful for acquiring green dye by smelting the cactus blocks. Efficient, productive, and interesting farm configurations can be achieved with the creative placement of water source blocks and sand.
Manual cactus farms can be a great start to farming cactus. Manual designs are generally cheaper, easier to build, and more lag efficient than automatic designs. However, manual farms are also less efficient and much slower than automatic designs. If you do not need a large amount of cacti, manual farms should be enough.
This design is probably the simplest next to looting a desert biome. To build it, simply place cactus in rows 1 space apart from each other. It may be desirable to space rows 2 blocks apart to make harvesting easier without getting pricked. If you are not careful, there may be some loss from the cactus being destroyed.
This method of cactus farming allows for the player to harvest cacti without taking damage. It uses a platform and a water canal to collect the cacti. Wait for the cactus to grow and break the upper block while standing on the pedestal. It is not the most efficient nor compact design, but it could do for smaller farms. It has about a 15% loss rate.
- Cactus pedestal farming in-game
Generally speaking, the use of pistons in a cactus farm is a very laggy and noncompact way of harvesting. However, in a manual design, the use of pistons can be beneficial as they allow the cactus to be more tightly packed and make it easier to harvest without being damaged. Additionally, since all the cactus are broken at one, there is less for broken cactus to be destroyed.
The schematic shows an efficient way of building a farm this. The redstone and pistons should be built 1 block beneath the sand. Cacti should be placed on every sand block. A block will need to be placed on the pistons or they will not push up high enough to break the cacti. If you are lacking in slime, gravel or another falling block can be used instead of sticky pistons.
Notice how each cactus is only next to 1 piston and each piston except on the edges is next to 4 cacti. When building, make sure it is same if you want to use the least pistons.
The first time you build this, it may be helpful to place the sand and pistons first. You could do this on a level surface, digging an extra block lower for each piston.
When you are satisfied that the placement of the pistons is correct, remove the sand and ground where the redstone goes.
Automatic cactus farms work on the principle that if there is space available above a cactus, but there is a block next to where the new cactus block will be, then the cactus will grow and immediately break off. This principle can be used to create massive yet lag efficient designs.
The design of a cactus farm is critical to its efficiency. These points can help you to design farms with greater yields than you could otherwise obtain.
- The more densely packed a cactus farm is, the more cactus will be broken. It is important to not be fooled by the number of cacti fit into a space, but rather to look at the output of cacti the space. The best farms balance density and efficiency so that the highest yield is obtained.
- It is also important to choose a good block to break the cactus growth with. Using a regular block is inefficient since when items hit it they land on the cactus. The most ideal blocks are those with a hitbox similar to a fence post. When a cactus hits a fence post, it falls down to the ground rather than onto the cactus plant.
- Items can also hit the block above a cactus. If they do so, they can lose their momentum and fall back down onto the cactus. A half block space above the grown cactus should be sufficient to prevent this.
A common design, replace the vines with string
A standard cacti farm usually looks something this. Designs these are not very efficient, however, when built on a large scale, they can produce thousands of cacti per hour. Usually water streams are placed at the bottom to wash the cacti into hoppers.
The basis of the modified Xisumavoid design
This design uses efficient design principles to get higher output per block. Note that the iron bar in the schematic must be replaced with a fence post or it will not work.
To construct this design, first create a large square slabs. Next, place sand blocks every other block. Finally, place in water streams so that all the cacti flow into hoppers. Repeat this process above the bottom to stack the farm. As there are no pictures, it will probably be helpful to see the design in the video.
“Modified Xisumavoid design” – via
When a piston is zero-ticked next to a cactus, it increases the growth stage of the cactus by 1.[until JE 1.16] By doing this just right, some of the fastest cactus farms can be created. Alternatively, sand can be manipulated into a semi-stable state, further increasing farm output.
Planting cacti – advice PROFESSIONAL (+ schemes)
TODAY THE SPEECH WILL GET THE RULES OF LANDING AND CARE OF THEM.
Probably, many fans of domestic plants came across the fact that “Dutch” cacti bought in hypermarkets or flower shops died in 4-6 months.
The question is: why? The fact is that the basis of industrial production of plants for gardening is the principle: they do not have to live long and should be easily replaced by newly acquired ones.
There is a method, sonorous called “live canning”, in which
before selling the plant pumped with glycerin and other preservatives.
Therefore, it is better to buy cacti from people who are engaged in their breeding: and you can talk, and get good advice, and make good acquaintances.
But what if you bought a cactus you d in the store and, say, he escaped the fate of live canning? In my book The Culture of Cacti, I described in detail all the steps for cultivating and breeding these plants. Within the same journal article, we have to speak very briefly.
So, what do we need? Pot, substrate, drainage. But before – to inspect the roots of the newly acquired plants.
WHAT WE ARE SELLING FOR
Industrial plants are grown on a poor peat substrate, nutrients are supplied in solutions – this is a kind of substrate hydroponics. Since the substrate itself is poor in nutrients, firms offer special fertilizers, once again pulling out money from the buyers' pocket.
All the commercially available substrates have a peat basis – even special ones for cacti or succulents. For normal growth of cacti such substrates can not be more than 10% of the volume of the right soil mixture, and then only in order to increase its acidity.
See also: Epicactus (orchid kakutsy) photo growing and care at home
HOW TO PREPARE A SUBSTRATE FOR CACTICIAN CROSSING
A good and simple recipe for cactus is prepared from humus and sand. You can add a large fraction of the broken red brick, small stones, perlite, vermiculite.
As a fertile part, natural leaf humus, collected from linden or birch, proved to be a good idea. We take it from 1 / 2 to 2 / 3 parts (if the volume of finished soil is taken as 1) and mixed with large sand (1 / 3-1 / 2 parts). To this volume, you can add up to 0,1 part of the peat substrate and as many large-fractional elements (stones, broken bricks, etc.).
The ingredients are mixed. The finished substrate is compressed in the fist – a lump must form which is scattered with a light impact.
Decontaminate the substrate conveniently in a microwave oven. We pour it into a bowl, pour it abundantly and put it in a plastic bag. Tied package put in the microwave for 10 minutes at maximum power. Then let the substrate cool down and hold it for 2-3 days. During this time, the acidity is leveled in the substrate and the humidity decreases.
As a drain, small expanded clay for cacti is not suitable, since it has an alkaline reaction. The claydite must be large and, as they say, collapsed, that is split so that its grayish-black core containing aluminum salts can be seen.
Aluminum and its salts are toxic to many pathogenic fungi and bacteria and disinfect the substrate. For the same purpose, fine coal (up to 10% of the total volume) or wood ash (3-4 tablespoons per 1 liter of substrate) can be added to the substrate.
Drainage is also desirable steamed.
So, the cactus taken from the container lies on its side. We disassemble the root lump, freeing the roots from the peat. Completely remove it from the roots is not necessary – can break off the thin young roots, and we want to preserve the branched root system.
Carefully cut the rotten and very long roots. Slices are sprinkled with aluminum powder or wood ash. Roots the roots.
It will not be bad if the cactus is on its side with the open roots of 2-3 days – very gentle “hydroponic” roots during this time will dry up and break off (by the way, they will disappear anyway), and new young suckers will take their place.
CHOOSE THE POT
Which pot to use for cacti? It used to be that clay is the best – there was simply nothing else. True, large plants were grown in wooden tubs, but there were no cacti of “kadon” sizes for sale. Clay pots are usually round (conical), so with a large number of collections for the maintenance of cacti will need a fairly large area.
Pots of a square section can be installed more densely. They are made of wood, metal, plastic. With a light, well drained substrate, cacti grow with success in such dishes.
Large bowls – “cactus” – are suitable for small species and young plants. They can create original compositions.
So, the pot material is not important. To some extent, its design can make a difference. This is easy to take into account when making the pot yourself (Figure 1). More important is the correct landing.
At the beginning of the past century, a fashion appeared on closed ECOSYSTEMS. TRANSLATED TO US ALREADY FOR THE POSTWORK YEARS.
PLANTS, IN PARTICULAR, CACTICS, SUCCESSED IN AQUARIUM OR LARGE GLASS BOTTLES, SOMETIMES ONE, BUT MORE IN COMPOSITIONS.
IN THE AQUARIES OF THE PLANTING PLANTS ARE VERY RARE, AND IN BOTTLES – ONLY ONCE AND IN THE BEGINNING. They gently clutched the jams and filled it with a dense water gun.
IN SUCH CONDITIONS OF CACTUS EXISTED PRETTY FOR LONG TIME – SEVERAL YEARS, UNTIL THEY WAS UPDATED IN THE WALLS OF THE VESSEL
In cacti, the weakest link is the root cervix, the site of the root retraction from the stem. If it periodically becomes wet, it begins to rot and the plant dies. Therefore, the substrate must be water-permeable, rapidly drying and well drained.
At the bottom of the pot we pour a layer of drainage. Usually its height (thickness) is up to 2 cm. But for particularly capricious cactus species, the drainage layer can be 1 / 3 from the height of the pot and even under the interfering drainage elements in the fertile soil.
On the drainage layer, we fill the slide of the substrate so that it covers the drainage, but does not take up too much space. Cactus is kept above the pot, and its roots are neatly and evenly distributed over the hill substrate.
Then we add the substrate to the level of the root neck with a slight compaction. The cactus itself can be lifted, as if slightly pulling out, or pressed into the substrate so that the plant does not fall the pot.
Ideally, the root neck should be located 1,5-2 cm below the top of the pot and be free from the substrate, and the plant itself should be centrally located and fairly stable.
We take the mulching material treated with boiling water – small pebbles, coarse sand, broken red brick or clay crocks – and gently fall asleep on the root neck. Sometimes, for greater stability, the stalk of the cactus is supported or lashed with large stones.
Decoration of shells, plaster figures, Christmas toys, etc., in my opinion, is not aesthetically pleasing.
The plant is first planted in the penumbra or scattered light and do not water for three days. Then the cactus is gradually accustomed to the sun, but it is not advisable to water more than once a week – the substrate must dry out.
With a good content, the cactus will begin to grow, demonstrating this with its juicy green vertex. If his growth stopped (the plant went into hibernation), watering should be stopped, and the cactus should be put in a cooler place. When everything is done correctly, in the spring it will resume its growth and, maybe, will please us with flowers.
See also: Cactus transplantation: master class and photo
RIGHT CUTTING ON THE SCHEME
Fig. 1 STAGES OF MANUFACTURE OF PIPE FROM POLYSTYRENE:A – marking of the sheet of polystyrene: B – leveling of the edge of the workpieces; B – gluing of blanks; D – gluing of the legs.
Fig. 2 CORRECT LOCATION OF DRAIN, SOIL AND MULCHER (FROM SMALL
THE RIGHT (LEFT) AND INCORRECT POSITION OF THE ROOTS AT THE TRANSLATION OF ADULT CACTUSES. CROWNED ROOTS ROLLING INEVITABLE AND MAY BE THE REASON FOR THE DAMAGE OF PATHOGENIC MUSHROOMS (FROM S. BREHME).
CACTICIAN PLACE – VIDEO
Indoor plants cacti planting care Artem Panarin
© S. Batov, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences, author of the book “Culture of Cacti”, a remarkable professional
CACTS – LANDING AND CARE: FLOWER TIPS
Someone does not tolerate cacti on the spirit, but to someone these cute spines are nicer than the most exquisite flowers. For those who decide to settle these unusual plants in their homes, I want to reveal some features of their cultivation. In general, compliance with simple rules will allow you to admire not only thorns, but also flowers.
Taboo for cactus
Having bought a thorn at home, many keep it here all year round. In the meantime, it is not worth doing this, because at rest, cacti easily tolerate even zero temperature.
The main thing to consider is that these plants “do not respect” the nutritive soil. If they are placed in a container with such ground, they will begin to stretch, become loose, pear-shaped, and powerful spines will thin out, turning into thin bristles. When everything is in moderation, then the joy of their plants, you can get a lot.
Although not only fat land can harm the cactus. If the roots of the plant are heavily overmoistened, while it is chilly in the cold, you will not have to wait for anything good from the prickly pet.
That is why, when preparing the plant for wintering, first wait for the earthen clod to dry out and only then rearrange it in a cool place.
This rule, by the way, is not canceled even in summer: as soon as it gets colder, immediately reduce watering!
However, the heat and cactus is absolutely not needed.
If the window sill is very warm, the flowering of the plant will have to be forgotten, since in order for the flower buds to be laid, the cactus needs dryness and cold.
But how can this be done if batteries are sparred in an apartment and house? To do this, part of the window sill, where they stand, must be isolated from the warm and dry flat air with the help of a polyethylene film.
Those who decide to grow cacti for the first time should start their passion for thorns from varieties that are the least demanding of conditions and at the same time flowering with ease. These are, for example, hymnocalicium, rebution, notocactus, mammillaria, echinopsis.
Cacti feel great on the southeast windows. But the simplest ones transfer their stay in the apartment to the eastern and western windows quite well. However, in the summer plants should be placed on the balcony or take them to the cottage.
From autumn to spring to water cacti is not necessary. They can take a refreshing shower only before they set off for the winter, which ends, as a rule, in March, when the thorns show clear signs of growth.
We are preparing a bed
Cactus will feel comfortable in a pot with a soil mixture composed of leaf humus, sod land and coarse washed sand taken in equal parts. Here you can add peat, crushed coal and bricks. Or use a commercial cactus mix by adding sand. It should take care that the pot has a drainage layer.
It is better to underfill than pour
This rule applies to the cultivation of prickly plants. It is advisable to water the cacti with settled, soft and warm water (30-40 degrees). How often to water them? If the spines are in the phase of active growth, it is necessary to provide them with water regularly, until the earthen coma is completely wetted.
And the next time to water only when the soil dries out. In autumn, when it gets cold, watering is reduced, and in winter, of course, it is completely stopped. With the onset of spring, cacti begin to humidify little by little, literally a few drops, gradually increasing the amount of water.
This is done to ensure that the plant was not under stress.
If there were yellow and brown spots, it means that there is waterlogging.
© Maria Antonovna Dudnik
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