- How to Plant an Orchard for Year Round Fruit (Even in Cold Climates)
- Early Spring Fruits
- Summer Fruits
- Summer Blueberries
- Late Season Blueberry Varieties:
- Summer Raspberries
- Mid-Season Raspberry Varieties (Summer Bearing)
- Summer Plums
- Summer Apples
- Other Summer Fruits
- Fall Fruits
- Fall Bearing Raspberries
- Fall Bearing Blueberries
- Fall Bearing Apples
- Fall Bearing Pears
- Winter Fruits
- Winter Storage Apples
- Winter Storage Pears
- Winter Storage Grapes
- Winter Storage Medlar
- Forcing Fruits in Winter
- Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site
- How to Plant Strawberries
- Winter Care of Strawberries
- Large-fruited strawberry: varieties and care all year round
- Care for strawberries in spring
- Large-fruited strawberries – summer care
- Large-fruited strawberries in autumn
- Large-fruited strawberry variety
- Below other entries on the topic “Dacha and garden – with their own hands”
- Secrets of Growing STRAWBERRIES Indoors Year Round
- For indoor growing, look out for compact varieties that remain short and neat during their growth. Strawberry cultivars that produce less or no runners are most suitable for this purpose
- Pot Size for Strawberries
- Pests and Diseases
How to Plant an Orchard for Year Round Fruit (Even in Cold Climates)
I have this dream of someday growing all our own food for a full year right on our homestead. We’ve been slowly expanding our orchard and fruit production over the years, working toward that dream. We now have a steady supply of fruit year-round, either fresh off the plant or from the root cellar.
With the long Vermont winters (zone 4), a supply of fresh fruit can be a challenge. The growing season is only 100 days long, which leaves another 265 days mostly eating root cellared crops. Fruits with a good storage life are essential to ensuring that you have fresh fruit throughout the cold months.
You need more than just late bearing storage fruits to stay supplied. If you’re going to have a year-round supply of homegrown fruit, you’ll need to plant varieties that fruit very early in the spring as well.
It all comes down to planning. You’ll need to select varieties that fruit very early, as well as varieties that fruit regularly all summer. Then still more varieties that fruit very late and store well.
Yellow Transparent apples ripe in early July in Vermont (Zone 4). While most apples bear in the fall, a few varieties of summer apples bear very early and can supply you just as your fall stores are running out.
Early Spring Fruits
By the end of winter, even if you’ve done well with your root cellar crops, fresh fruit is a welcome change. Most people think of strawberries as the first fruits of spring, but there are actually a few others that fruit even earlier.
Honeyberries taste a cross between grapes and blueberries and they fruit a few weeks earlier than strawberries every year. They don’t keep long, but at that time of year we’re hungry for fresh soft fruit and we never can grow enough. They ripen in early June in Vermont.
Ripe Honeyberries in early June in Vermont.
Rhubarb isn’t exactly a fruit, but it can be used a fruit in pies and baking. It bears well before strawberries in the springtime. It can also be forced indoors midwinter, which I’ll discuss later. Once rhubarb gets going, it can be prolific. You’ll need to come up with a few creative way to use it besides pie. Try any of these ways to use rhubarb.
Once strawberries come in they produce heavily at the beginning of the summer, starting right after the solstice here in Vermont. Most traditional varieties produce fruit for just 3-4 weeks per year. We’ve recently started growing everbearing strawberries which keep bearing fruit all the way into November, even fruiting after a few touches of frost.
Everbearing strawberries allow you to spread out your harvests and enjoy strawberries for months. You can buy everbearing strawberry plants here.
Summer is the easy season. Thre’s plenty of fruit, but the problem is that each crop takes its turn. For a week or two you’re overrun with raspberries, then plums, then blueberries as the season goes on. The trick is to find varieties that stretch the season out so you’re not slammed with one fruit while craving another.
Early season blueberries will begin bearing in late July, and if you plant mid- and late-season varieties you can have a steady supply of blueberries through October.
One of my favorite preserving books, Preserving Food without Freezing or Canning, describes a traditional finish method for root cellaring blueberries.
The berries themselves are placed into jars or earthenware pots and then covered in honey.
The blueberries will keep and become a natural lacto-ferment without any canning or electricity required. They don’t quite qualify as “fresh” though. For fresh blueberries, you’re more or less tied to berries harvested right off the plant.
Late Season Blueberry Varieties:
Part of our black raspberry patch fruiting mid-summer.
If raspberries are staked and trellised, they produce heavy crops on second-year canes each summer. Some varieties bear earlier than others, and if managed differently, raspberries can be induced to produce in the fall instead of the summer.
Mid-Season Raspberry Varieties (Summer Bearing)
- Bristol (black raspberry
- Jewel (black raspberry)
Plums ripen between July and September, and there are too many good varieties to list them all. We grow a variety called Pembina which produces fruit early that’s particularly tasty.
Our latest fruiting variety produces in early Augusts, so we’re hoping to add in a few late-season varieties to keep supplied longer.
If you’re looking for a good description of varieties, Michigan plum has a great rundown of information by type and bearing season.
Our plum trees are mostly planted at the edge of the woods and in the way places. They still bear heavy crops with almost no care. This picture was taken at the edge of the woods overlooking out house and shop.
Though they’re generally thought of as a fall crop, there are a number of summer apples that bear as early as the 4th of July.
We grow a variety called Yellow Transparent that fruits from Early July to Early August, even though our last frost is sometime in Early June.
It’s an old Russian variety that was bread to feed people just as the root storage crops are running dry, but before the first real harvests come in.
Other Summer Fruits
Beyond the heavy croppers, there’s also a number of more novel summer fruits to keep things interesting. Thimbleberries have a unique taste that’s somewhat a raspberry, and they’re low maintenance.
Currants produce heavy crops, and black currants, in particular, keep reasonably well. They’re a bit astringent for fresh eating and we juice them for blackcurrant mead.
Elderberries fruit at the end of summer, in early September, but they’re not particularly good fresh eating. We turn most of ours into elderberry mead and elderberry oxymel for winter medicine.
Fall is traditionally thought of as apple season. If you plant the right varieties, you can grow soft summer fruits raspberries and blueberries well into October. Everbearing strawberries are still going strong into early November.
Fall Bearing Raspberries
Most people in temperate climates are familiar with raspberries as a summer crop. I grew up in California, where the summers are too hot and dry for summer raspberries. The only raspberries I’d ever had were fall raspberries grown in the cool mountains. If instead of trellising raspberry canes, you mow them down at the end of the season, they’ll come up from scratch.
It takes them all summer and early fall to grow, but they produce delicious crops on first-year canes in the fall. In Central Vermont, they’ll bear until Mid-October some years.
Fall Bearing Blueberries
For fall bearing blueberries, plant some of the latest blueberry varieties, including Jersey and Elliot. They’ll keep you supplied with fresh blueberries through October.
Fall Bearing Apples
If you’re looking for fall bearing apples, you have quite the selection. Some of my favorites are pretty obscure heirloom varieties such as Wickson which is actually a crab apple but with great flavor, and Holstein which I had to taste after it was described as “not for the faint of heart.”
Before we chose which apple varieties to plant, we held a blind taste test with 32 varieties. All told we’ve tried hundreds of varieties, but it was an eye-opening experiment to have so many different apple flavors to compare side by side.
Fall Bearing Pears
Most varieties of pear bear in the fall, so you’re pretty safe here. Pears cant ripen correctly on the tree, so take extra care to pick your pears a few weeks before they’re ripe.
We grow a few varieties, but we have one that I love because of its unique blossoms. Pears tend to have single blooms, but there are a few varieties of pear with double blossoms, and they’re striking in the spring when they’re covered in flowers. Our double blossomed pear variety is called Cabot after a local Vermont town a few miles up the road.
A Cabot Pear ready for harvest on our homestead.
Winter is generally thought of as a lean time, and on that doesn’t offer much in the way of fruits.
Our ancestors worked hard to provision themselves in the winter, and they valued storage crops. There are varieties of apples, pears and even grapes that store well into the winter as fresh fruit.
There are also a few lesser-known crops that were once common and have fallen by the wayside.
Winter Storage Apples
There are a number of apples known as good keepers. The very best keeping variety is called Newton Pippin, and we’ve stored them for over a year with good results. I’ve literally eaten a perfectly fine newton pippin, harvested the year before, at the same time I was harvesting this year’s crop.
We’ve successfully stored Ashmead’s Kernel, Honeycrisp and Northern Spy for 8 months each, and they may last longer than that in optimal conditions.
Stocking Up, an old time food storage manual, suggests storing Stayman-Winesap, York Imperial, Arkansas Black Twig, Baldwin, Ben Davis and Rome Beauty and that each of those varieties will keep for at least 6 months.
I wrote up a reasonably exhaustive list of the best storage apples, and if you know of any not on my list I’d love to hear about it!
Newton Pippin apples in in Late March, after 6 months in the root cellar.
Winter Storage Pears
Pears are a bit tricky. Pears ripen from the inside out, and they cannot ripen correctly on the tree. If left attached to the tree until they’re completely ripe they’ll be rotten on the inside. Most pears are harvested a few weeks before they’re fully ripe and stored for a short time to ripen. Still, as a rule, most pears don’t keep past the fall.
There are a few varieties that were developed to provide storage pears until February.
The variety called Dana Hovey is harvested in October and can keep until February in the right conditions. It’s a bit a seckel pear, and great eating. Another variety called McLaughlin is also harvested in October and keeps into December or January.
Winter Storage Grapes
I read about root cellaring grapes in Root Cellaring: Natural Cold Storage of Fruits and Vegetables (which I highly recommend) but I assumed you wouldn’t find any suitable varieties around these days. Later on, we were invited to a December concert at a local winery, and I was pretty shocked to see they had fresh Vermont grown grapes for sale at the concession.
I wrote down the variety name, but alas managed to lose the scrap of paper at some point in the evening. I have it on my “to do” list to visit again and ask. None the less, it is possible and they are still in cultivation. Can you imagine it? Fresh grapes for New Year’s Eve!
Winter Storage Medlar
One of those fruits you’ve probably never heard of, medlars were grown in apple orchards to provide a good storage fruit option. They’re harvested in the fall, but they’re not ready to eat until midwinter after a few months of storage.
Our local food coop sells them in the fall to confused customers who try them, and immediately spit them out. After years of that, they finally put up a sign saying you need to wait until they’re wicked soft before eating them.
You’d think they’d just keep them in the back until they’re ripe…but they don’t. You can buy Medlar trees and seeds here.
Forcing Fruits in Winter
Beyond actually storing crops into the winter, there are other crops you can store as plants and force to fruit mid-winter or in the early spring. The book Root Cellaring provides detailed instructions on how to dig up rhubarb roots in the fall and store them until mid-winter. The potted roots are then brought the root cellar and forced to fruit indoors midwinter.
We’ve successfully planted and forced bare root strawberry plants to fruit in our attached greenhouse.
While they don’t fruit in winter, they will fruit in the spring, well before you’d see strawberries planted outdoors.
A local farmer grows everbearing strawberries in high tunnels, and he’s able to harvest a particular variety called Mara de Bois in May when plants outdoors won’t fruit until July.
What have I missed? What are you planning on growing in your orchard? Leave a note in the comments and let me know!
- Plan to plant as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring. See your local frost dates.
- Establish new plants each year to keep berry quality high each season.
- Buy disease-resistant plants from a reputable nursery, of a variety recommended in your area. Consult with the nursery you buy them from or with your state Cooperative Extension service for locally recommended varieties.
Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site
- Strawberry plants require 6-10 hours a day of direct sunlight, so choose your planting site accordingly.
- Strawberries are tolerant of different soil types, although they prefer loam. Ideally, begin working in aged manure or compost a couple months before planting. If you have clay soil, generally mix in 4 inches or more of compost, and rake the clay soil into raised mounds to further improve drainage. If your soil is sandy, simply cultivate to remove weeds, and mix in a 1-inch layer of rich compost or rotted manure.
- Soil pH should be between 5.5 and 7. If necessary, amend your soil in advance of planting. If soils in your area are naturally alkaline, it is best to grow strawberries in half-barrels or other large containers filled with compost-enriched potting soil.
- The planting site must be well-drained. Raised beds are a particularly good option for strawberry plants.
- Practice crop rotation for the most success. Do not plant in a site that recently had strawberries, tomatoes, peppers, or eggplant.
How to Plant Strawberries
- Provide adequate space for sprawling. Set plants out 20 inches apart to leave room for runners and leave 4 feet between rows. Strawberries are sprawling plants. Seedlings will send out runners, or ‘daughter’ plants, which in turn will send out their own runners.
- Roots shouldn’t be longer than 8 inches when plants are set out. Trim them if necessary.
- Make planting holes deep and wide enough to accommodate the entire root system without bending it. However, don’t plant too deep! The roots should be covered, but the crown should be right at the soil surface. It is very important that you do NOT bury the crown (central growing bud) of the plant or it could rot! The leaves, flowers, and fruit must be exposed to light and fresh air.
- Water plants well at the time of planting.
- It is also possible to grow strawberries from last year’s runners. See this video to find out how.
Check out this video to learn more about how to plant and grow strawberries:
- Keep the beds mulched to reduce water needs and weed invasion. Any type of mulch—from black plastic to pine straw to shredded leaves—will keep the soil moist and the plants clean. Read more about mulching.
- Be diligent about weeding. Weed by hand, especially in the first months after planting.
- Moisture is incredibly important due to shallow roots. Water adequately, about one inch per week. Strawberry plants need a lot of water when the runners and flowers are developing and again in the fall when the plants are mature.
- Fertilize with all-purpose granules for strong growth. In warm weather, berries ripen about 30 days after blossoms are fertilized.
- In the first year, pick off blossoms to discourage strawberry plants from fruiting. If not allowed to bear fruit, they will spend their food reserves on developing healthy roots. The yields will be much greater in the second year.
- Eliminate daughter plants as needed. First and second generations produce higher yields. Try to keep daughter plants spaced about 10 inches apart.
- Row covers are a good option for protecting blossoms and fruit from birds.
Photo by Yuriy S./Getty Images
Winter Care of Strawberries
Strawberry plants are perennial. They are naturally cold hardy and will survive mildly freezing temperatures. So, if your area has mild winters, little care is needed.
In regions where the temperature drops into the low twenties, strawberries will be in their dormant stage. It’s best to provide some winter protection:
- When the growing season is over, mow or cut foliage down to one inch. This can be done after the first couple of frosts, or when air temps reach 20°F (-6°C).
- Mulch plants about 4 inches deep with straw, pine needles, or other organic material.
- In even colder regions, more insulating mulch should be added.
- Natural precipitation should appropriately maintain sufficient soil moisture.
- Remove mulch in early spring, after danger of frost has passed.
- Gray Mold
- Powdery Mildew
- Japanese Beetles
- Spider Mites
- Keeping beds weed-free and using a gritty mulch can deter slugs and bugs. Spread sand over the strawberry bed to deter slugs. (This also works well for lettuce.) Pine needles also foil slug and pill-bug damage.
- For bigger bugs such as Japanese beetles, spray your plants with puréed garlic and neem seed oil.
- When birds threaten your strawberries, position balloons with scare-eyes above the beds and use reflective Mylar bird tape to deter them.
- Fruit is typically ready for harvesting 4-6 weeks after blossoming.
- Harvest only fully red (ripe) berries, and pick every three days.
- Cut by the stem; do not pull the berry or you could damage the plant.
- For June-bearer strawberries, the harvest will last up to 3 weeks. You should have an abundance of berries, depending on the variety.
- Store unwashed berries in the refrigerator for 3–5 days.
- Strawberries can be frozen whole for about 2 months.
- Watch our video on How to Make Strawberry Preserves!
Photo by Ben Shuchunke/Getty Images
Try planting more than one variety. Each will respond differently to conditions, and you will have a range of different fruits to enjoy.
- ‘Northeaster’ is best suited for the northeastern US and southeastern Canada. Fruit has strong flavor and aroma.
- ‘Sable’ is hardy to zone 3, early season, great flavor.
- ‘Primetime’ is a mild-flavored, disease-resistant variety, best adapted to the Mid-Atlantic.
- ‘Cardinal’ is a good variety to try in the South.
- ‘Camarosa’ is a good variety to try on the West Coast.
- ‘Tristar’ is a day-neutral variety that’s very well-suited for hanging baskets.
Learn more about choosing and growing different strawberry varieties.
One theory is that woodland pickers strung them on pieces of straw to carry them to market. Others believe that the surface of the fruit looks as if it’s embedded with bits of straw. Still others think that the name comes from the Old English word meaning “to strew,” because the plant’s runners stray in all directions and look as if they are strewn on the ground.
The June full Moon is called the Strawberry Moon because when this Moon appeared, it signaled that it was time to start gathering ripening fruit.
Submitted by Helen B on September 5, 2018 – 3:02pm
Can I use grass cuttings to mulch plants? Do all the plants get cut down? I hesitate to do that !
Submitted by Brenda on August 14, 2018 – 11:46pm
Hi, First year of growing container strawberry plants. They've done extremely well, large robust plants. Do I bring them inside over the winter? How to I proceed after the growing season is finished for this year. Any advice will be appreciated. Thank you!
Submitted by Laxmi Strawberr… on August 1, 2018 – 9:41am
Laxmi Strawberry Farm, the place to be all year round and especially at strawberry season!!! Come and spend the day picking and eating ripe organic strawberries, down in our fields!
Submitted by Melinda on July 9, 2018 – 2:24am
I currently live in a townhouse with room for a tiny garden in the back. The problem is that it is on the north side and is pretty shady most of the day. The first year I was here, there was nothing but dirt in the back and it washed onto my patio (from the neighbors back yards) every time it rained.
I had some strawberries in pots that had been given to me, and the managers gave me permission to plant them for erosion control. The plants themselves grow well in the shade, but since they are 'Hula berries' it is difficult for me to tell when the fruit is completely ripe.
I want to renovate the beds next year and plant a different type of strawberry, (Fragaria vesca) which should be tolerable of the shade, but I will need to germinate the seeds myself, as I need over 50 plants to fill the space (spaced 12 inches apart, with an 18 inch alley) and it would be too expensive to buy them all at $4-5 per plant, which is the lowest I can find them for in my area.
I need to know how long it takes on average for strawberry seedlings started indoors to be ready for planting outside after they have germinated (I know they need 2-4 weeks of stratification and will take another 2-4 weeks to germinate, planting season for my area has typically been March – April) so I have a better idea of when to start the seeds. I have heard a recommendation saying they can be transitioned outdoors after they have their 3rd true leaf, but I have not been able to find any information as to approximately how long it takes for those leaves to develop.
Submitted by Kate on July 8, 2018 – 1:11pm
I planted a few strawberry plants, not sure what variety, 2-3 years ago, and have pretty much left them alone because unsure how to care for them. They have spread crazy, and are mixed in with flowers in a relatively small area in my backyard.
They have produced more berries each year, but still not many, and only in early summer so I'm guessing they are June-bearing.
What should I do to keep them as healthy and productive as possible? Is there any way to tell which are mother and daughter plants, or which to pull to keep things healthiest? Since they are done bearing for this year, should I cut leaves/stems back to one inch from the ground?
Submitted by Roz Croswell on April 20, 2018 – 9:14am
Please- we have existing plants – my son has a small backyard deck which is used to entertain and uses containers for growing veggies, etc…
Last year we used a fabric bag made from recyclable water bottles, etc and we were not quite sure how to keep the strawberry plants over the winter (zone 4-5) in this container — half survived…
Please advice how to grow the best strawberries given this situation.. Thanks
Submitted by emeline brady on February 3, 2018 – 6:08pm
why my Strawberries from my garden has not go taste, there are no sweet. your help is much appreciate. thanks
Large-fruited strawberry: varieties and care all year round
When an enthusiastic horticulturist with inspiration tells about how and what he does during the year, you can listen (or read) – well, not agrotechnics, but a real poem. Everything in it is – and lyrics, and a hint, and a lesson.
Care for strawberries in spring
We start work in the garden early.
To obtain an earlier harvest of such winter-hardy varieties as Talca and Dorenko, we clean the beds from the snow, water them with warm water, then we fill the plastic bottles with them and put them in the inter-rows, and we cover the beds on metal arches with the film with the ends.
Water in bottles, warming by day from the sun, gives heat at night, protecting the bushes from spring unexpected frosts. In warm weather, the film is removed from the ends of the greenhouse, and when good weather is established, we remove it completely.
When the snow completely dries, I pass through the beds with a broom, cleaning them from old leaves, which then
burn, because they can be infected with diseases and pests. And then for prevention I spill the land from the watering can with hot water at a temperature not higher than 50 °.
When digging a bed, I always put five buckets of humus, one bucket of sand (we have clay soil), half a bucket of ash, half a bucket of dolomite flour, half a kilo of superphosphate and potassium fertilizer, two buckets of sawdust (for looseness of soil).
In early May, we process the earth with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and dust it with ashes. Also along the rows I make shallow grooves, where I pour slurry, diluted with water (2: 10).
Sprouts of strawberries are planted in April – early May, so that the fruits can be tasted in the summer (usually every year we experience more than 20 varieties). Sprouts are selected with a well-developed root system and the presence of two to five leaves.
I try to plant strawberries either in cloudy weather or in the evening and necessarily pritenyayu rosetochki leaves of burdock or grass. It is important not to deepen the heart – it should be at the level of the soil.
When landing in the 2 series I leave between the bushes a distance of 30 cm for ventilation to protect strawberries from diseases. But slaboroslye and remontant varieties I plant in a checkerboard pattern. I squeeze the earth slightly against the sockets, and then water abundantly – it should get wet inside the centimeters on 30.
For the formation of more connections during the flowering period over strawberry bushes, spray a weak solution of boric acid (on 1 l warm pod – half a teaspoon). It is very beneficial to grow remontant strawberry varieties, which bear fruit throughout the summer and in the warm season of autumn, until frost.
Usov give a little, spending nutrients on continuous ripening of a crop. For example, winter-resistant and disease-resistant Korolyov, and Elizabeth II and Brighton annually delight us with abundant harvests of large juicy berries.
It is noteworthy that the young rosettes of the first three orders from the mother bush also bear fruit abundantly, and the berries do not grow small until late autumn.
Spring frosts do not affect the early peduncle of patchy strawberry, and therefore, on yield.
Strawberries are an excellent honey, so in the spring, at the beginning of flowering, I sprinkle buds with honey water in the morning (1 liters of water – 1 liters of honey) to attract bees to them.
On remontant strawberries I always leave young rosettes for fructification next year, as queen cells quickly age. Such varieties are well fruited for 4-5 years, then it is desirable to update the ridge.
Repaired strawberries are fed cautiously under the bushes from May to October, and only in the evening, and in the morning we water the beds with sprinkling on the leaf with clean water.
I also add that almost all the strawberries we grow on the raised beds, the frame of which is made of boards. It is very convenient to take care of: when watering, water does not drain into the aisles, and when loosening there the ground does not fall.
Reference by topic: How to grow strawberries from seeds
Large-fruited strawberries – summer care
For strawberry bushes to yield a good harvest, we once every 10 days we fertilize with nitrogen fertilizers and nitrate (1 tbsp per 10 L of water) or slurry. 6 period of ripening of berries, if necessary, sprayed beds with infusion of onion husk, celandine, wormwood, tansy and elderberry.
From time to time I loosen the beds with a flat cutter – this allows us to save precious summer time, and the cut weeds play the role of mulch. In the summer, the beds are watered abundantly, since the strong root system of the strawberry takes nutrients from a great depth.
In the strong heat of the garden several times a day, we cool by sprinkling through the diffuser, so that the number of ovaries on the bushes does not decrease.
The berries are collected before lunch: before they have heated up in the sun, they keep their freshness and appearance better.
When harvesting rotten and infected strawberries do not scatter (otherwise their spores will blow up the whole site), and we put it into an old barrel without a bottom, which is buried in the ground at 10 cm.
Then we throw organic waste, then we pour everything with peat or earth and periodically watered. By the next spring, the contents of the barrel decay and produce a good fertilizer.
According to my observations, the first, second and third order whiskers have the highest yields – we delete all the excess ones during the main harvesting period. This increases the winter hardiness of uterine bushes and their yield in the next year.
In August, after harvesting to prevent disease and destroy pests, strawberry foliage is mowed at an altitude of 5 cm from the ground. Below it is impossible – you can damage the hearts of bushes. All the sloping are collected and burned, and the beds are watered abundantly with top dressing, so that till the middle of September the bushes managed to become covered with young leaves.
Large-fruited strawberries in autumn
After the end of fruiting, feed strawberries with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers to lay fruit fruit buds next year. At the end of September, all ridges are watered abundantly, powdering ash before it and adding superphosphate to increase winter hardiness. We arrange the same shower in the late autumn.
Thanks to this at the onset of cold weather, the ground quickly freezes and slowly thaws in the spring. Therefore, the root system of strawberries is longer at rest, and the bushes do not suffer in short-term thaw.
In the autumn, we do not touch the fallen leaves, on the contrary, lightly sprinkle the beds with them-as mulch. All this protects strawberry bushes from freezing in the snowless period. In November, we cover the beds with lapnik for snow retention.
Poisoning baits for rodents do not use: with all this living creatures our assistant dog Rada (she at the same time and snow crouches between the beds).
See also: Strawberries care calendar – strawberries
Well, now it's time to take stock. Excellent winter hardiness and yield showed grade Talka: its large red fruit, sourish-sweet to taste, and ask in the basket. Very much varieties: Dorenko, Zenith, Honeyl, Unparalleled.
But the real favorite is the Festival chamomile, the bushes are literally strewn with large, shiny dark red berries with delicious flesh. This variety, despite the fact that strawberries love well-lit areas, we have been growing under the crowns of fruit trees for more than 25 years and gives stable yields of large berries.
Rejuvenation of bushes occurs as a result of spontaneous rooting of first-order whiskers (the rest we delete).
From mid-ripening varieties I want to single out a long-bearing fruit-bearing winter-hardy, very yielding and disease-resistant variety Galiama. Did not disappoint and Knight with large and very tasty berries.
I the variety Zefir with large, weight up to 45 g, aromatic berries. In no way inferior to him and variety Troitskaya.
But the Fireworks we call a transportable variety – berries do not lose their, as they say, presentation.
I want to highlight a very sweet variety Queen: the berries are large, up to 60 g in weight, shiny, red in color, very fragrant. In this case, the fruit often appears on the first-order rooted mustache.
A good harvest encourages us and Cinderella, but her berries are very small. The winter-resistant and resistant to diseases varieties of barley strawberry differ in appearance Swede.
Its large berries, dotted with red dots-seeds, simply melt in the mouth.
Very valuable for any gardener, in our opinion, are the late varieties of strawberries. For example, Redgentlit even the most fastidious owner will delight in its yield.
And the garden looks elegant: it is literally strewn with large, shiny, red colored berries, the flesh of which is dense, juicy, sourish-sweet to the taste. Excellent yield and in the variety Zenga Zengana, but it is medium-resistant to diseases.
Bogotá also bred fruit well, but he does not shade, the medium is unstable to illnesses and frosts during frosty winters. Berries are medium in size, red, fragrant, sourish-sweet to the taste.
Very beautiful look all season flowering ridge of remontant strawberries with garlands of ripening scarlet berries. Especially looks effectively on the garden Pink Uralschka, bushes which are entirely covered with a floating pink cloud of flowers, but here the berries are small.
The variety is medium-resistant to fruit rot and especially suffers in rainy weather. Now we have a test for winter hardiness and other parameters Ostara, Sweet Evie, Lubava and Autumn Fun.
From berries we prepare jam, jelly, compotes, liqueurs, and some are frozen (Fireworks, Zenith and Carmen).
In all matters, children help me with pleasure, and my grandchildren enjoy delicious berries. I wish you all good health and rich harvests! I do not deal with seedlings by mail. I send photos of some strawberry varieties, when you look at which the mood rises from the memories of our dacha.
To the note to the gardener:
Because of the high content of strawberries in different berries of different vitamins, organic acids, mineral salts and trace elements, their use favorably affects the human body.
Fresh berries are useful in atherosclerosis, anemia, hypertension, for the prevention and treatment of the gastrointestinal tract, are soothing to the nervous system and as a restorative in the spring and early summer. Masks from softened fresh berries with the addition of honey refresh and bleach the face, prevent its aging, help with the treatment of skin diseases. Infusions of strawberry berries have an antimicrobial effect.
Large-fruited strawberry variety
In the photo from the left to the right are large-berry cultivars: Brighton, Cinderella, Carmen, Zenith, Queen Elizabeth 2, Troitskaya.
V.Okhotnikova (Vladimir Region)
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Secrets of Growing STRAWBERRIES Indoors Year Round
You can grow strawberry from seeds:
- Fill the seed starting tray with half-inch of soil, one-fourth of potting mix, and three-fourth of peat moss.
- Sprinkle seeds on the top of this growing medium after moistening it with water.
- Add a very thin layer of peat moss over it by lightly sprinkling it over the seeds.
- The seeds will germinate soon and will be ready for transplanting when they have grown 3-4 sets of true leaves.
However, since you’re growing strawberries indoors, you can skip this method. Assuming you may plant just a few plants and strawberries grown from seeds take time to bear fruits, it’s better to avoid that.
The better option is to get healthy and disease-free strawberry transplants from any local nursery nearby or online store. If you have existing berry plants, you can quickly multiply them from their runners. Majority of strawberry varieties produces runners, except a few.
You can grow strawberry from runners:
- Plant the tip of the runner in a separate pot close to the mother plant.
- Cut it once you see some growth in the new clone plant.
Strawberry plants exhaust a lot of energy in producing runners, and our advice for the indoor plant growers is to prune them off so that they can concentrate their energy on fruits and flowers.
Select the healthy transplants and gently remove them from their mini pots without disturbing the roots and plant them in desired planters, without burying the crowns in fresh potting soil. Don’t forget to trim the discolored and diseased leaves if any before planting.
Also Read: Everything About Growing Strawberries
For indoor growing, look out for compact varieties that remain short and neat during their growth. Strawberry cultivars that produce less or no runners are most suitable for this purpose
There are various factors to consider when it comes to selecting the right strawberry cultivar. These include taste, size, freezing, canning and jams, and container growing.
For instance, sparkle variety has an intense flavor, but fruits are medium-sized, whereas June-bearing Honeoye is resistant to soil-borne diseases and produces large-sized berries.
For container growing, one the best cultivar is day-neutral Seascape–It’s smaller in size, flavorful and produces large fruits.
If you want the longest fruit-bearing season strawberries, day-neutral varieties are best:
- They even fruit year-round in certain climates. Also, they’re very productive.
- One more advantage of these types of strawberries is their fruiting doesn’t depend on the length of the days, which is good if you’re using grow-lights. which are also known as
You should also look for Alpine strawberries, which are also known as Wild strawberries as they have all the qualities mentioned above:
- They grow in the wild in lack of sunlight, in harsh weather conditions, they can produce well in part sun.
- They don’t produce runners and remain compact, suitable for limited space.
- They produce small but very flavorful, sweet and fragrant strawberries.
Pot Size for Strawberries
Strawberries have a shallow root system. You can grow multiple plants in a single pot, in a cramped space. A 6 to 8 inches deep flowerpot that is wide similarly or more, preferably a window box would be fine. Maintain 3-4 inches of spacing between each plant, you can grow them this closely, but you’ll need to water more often.
Any fruit or vegetable plant grows best in full sun. When growing strawberries indoors, place them on a sunny windowsill or close to the glass door, much better if you have a small balcony. Any part in your home that receives minimum 5-6 hours of sunlight would suffice. Also, make sure you don’t keep your strawberry plants close to hot and cool air vents of air conditioner and heaters.
In case of low light, place the plants under artificial light, no more than 16 hours per day. Ideally, 12-14 hours! Put the full spectrum LED grow lights above the pots following the manufacturer’s instruction. You can use the timer so that your grow lights turn off automatically after the sunset or do it manually to give rest to your strawberry plants in the night.
Slightly acidic soil with pH in the range of 5.3 to 6.5 is most suitable, but neutral soil is also acceptable for planting strawberries. Light and well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter such as humus, compost, or well-rotted manure can do wonders. Make sure the soil is free from any contamination.
Generally, keep the soil slightly moist all the time but not overly drenched. If there is not much sunlight and the air around the plants is cold and damp, water only when 1 inch of topsoil is dry. Morning is the best time for watering!
Provide a well-balanced liquid fertilizer diet such as 20-20-20 or Dyna Grow Foliage Pro 9-3-6 fertilizer as it has all the micronutrients required, once in every 2-3 weeks.
Whichever fertilizer brand you choose, make sure it has Calcium and Magnesium in it, especially if your soil is acidic. You can also feed the strawberries with tomato or rose fertilizer, once the flowering starts.
Reduce fertilizer dose or increase the duration before feeding again if your strawberry plants show the symptoms of overfertilization such as yellowing or wilting of lower leaves, brown leaf tips, and margins. For more details, check out this informative article on Pennsylvania State University extension.
Prune the runners to direct the plant’s energy on growth and production of more fruits. Also, remove the unwanted flowers.
Prune back the plant after the fruiting season is over. The best way to do is by removing all the foliage except the central young leaves. Don’t wait too long as the plant will heal itself if the weather is still warm.
You’ll need to hand pollinate the strawberry flowers, doing this using any soft brush–paint or makeup brush would be fine.
Strawberries that are soft, aromatic, and red are ripe and ready to be picked. Generally, the berries are available for harvest in around 4-6 weeks after the blossoms. You can pluck them as you see them to consume fresh and juicy strawberries.
Pests and Diseases
One of the main advantages of growing strawberries indoors is you don’t have to worry about the pest problems. Still, you’ll need to keep an eye on common garden pests such as mites and aphids.