Growing Orchids at Home – PROFESSIONAL Tips

Orchid care for different cultivation methods –

Growing Orchids at Home - PROFESSIONAL Tips

Whatever way of growing orchids you choose, before acquiring a culture of any kind, you have to learn about the basics of cultivation of these plants in room conditions. Some methods may seem quite simple to you, others are too complicated, but one way or another, you can’t do without special knowledge and at least minimal agrotechnical skills in this matter.

There are several ways to grow orchids at home: in containers (pots, baskets, hanging pots), on hanging blocks and in a pot-block culture, i.e., on a block fortified in a pot.

Secrets and general rules of growing orchids at home

The whole system of growing orchids at home is a few simple general rules.

The first ruleIt is necessary for crops to provide sufficient illumination. The selection of temperature regimes, the frequency of watering, the intensity of dressing depends on the level of illumination and light quality.

Epiphytic orchids – plants are not exactly potted.

They exist on the border between the pot substrate and the room air. Therefore, they should be planted so that they “crawl”, as it were. substrateThey didn’t dive into it, but at the same time they were well fortified in a pot.

The second ruleMost orchids need a porous, fast drying substrate.

Any stagnation of moisture in the substrate coma can cause the dying off of the roots, and, as a result, the death of the whole plant.

In addition to the lack of light, many reasons can cause excessive moisture: the absence of a drainage layer inside the pot, too much moisture-absorbing, long-drying substrate, frequent and abundant watering.

therefore third rule growing orchids you need to know novice florist – water the plant only as the substrate dries.

The fourth rule concerns the diagnosis of substrate moistening.

When evaluating irrigation terms, do not hesitate to resort to old gardeners' methods, covering the surface of the substrate with a layer of sphagnum moss (wet moss is darker than dry), either weighing the pot in your hand (light pot dry) or plunging a finger in the middle of the substrate (if the finger feels cold – the substrate is wet, if not – urgent is required watering).

Indoor orchids, although they passed a long “taming” to the window sills, are still tropical plants. At home, they usually do not have enough moist air.

Hence fifth rule growing orchids at home – less water in the pot, more – on the leaves. Orchids gratefully respond to frequent spraying, even by wiping the leaves with a wet cloth. You can increase the humidity in the room and with the help of a domestic air humidifier or arrange your pets a small room greenhouse on the windowsill.

Attention! This rule of care when growing orchids does not work for venereal shoes and “precious” orchids, which it is advisable not to sprinkle on the leaves.

The Sixth Rule concerns transplants. The secret is that you need to replant orchids as little as possible and only during the active growth of the roots or just before their appearance.

But if the orchid's roots are rotted, the plant should be transplanted immediately, whatever phase of growth it is. The need for transplants can be caused by a decomposed substrate that has lost porosity, or the growth of a plant outside the pot.

In the first case, transplantation will help avoid overwetting and rotting, and in the second case, regular drying of the root system.

Seventh rule Regarding how to grow orchids correctly, concerns fertilizing. You can feed epiphytic and lithophyte cultures with any liquid mineral fertilizer for flowers, but the concentration of fertilizing must be reduced by 10 times compared with the concentration indicated on the label (except for special fertilizer for orchids, where it is already diluted).

The frequency of fertilizing when caring for orchids while growing at home is no more than 1 — 2 once a week during active growth. Temporarily stop feeding is recommended only in the darkest season – from November to January, but only for those plants that are contained in rooms without artificial lighting.

And one more rule how to grow orchids at home: it is better not to rearrange plants from place to place, otherwise the buds may fall off, and you, having almost achieved success, will lose the long-awaited flowering.

How to grow orchids in baskets at home (with photos and video)

Baskets are made of solid, long resistant to rotting wood (oak, beech, bamboo) and hung from the glass.

Large baskets pick up very large sizes for orchids, and in medium and small baskets they plant not very large species with drooping peduncles, including Phalaenopsis (Phnlaenopsis).

A kind of wooden basket is a plastic container with perforated (or mesh) walls. Orchid roots can freely penetrate these openings. If the perforated container purchased from the store does not have bottom openings in the bottom, they can be made with a hot metal rod.

How to grow orchids at home in this way? The difficulties of cultivating flowers in baskets and perforated containers are primarily associated with the flowability of the substrate, which gradually pours the gaps between the slats, which not only creates certain inconveniences during watering, but also reduces the substrate space.

As shown in the photo, this can be avoided when growing orchids by first “digging up” all the cracks in the basket with fibrous materials, for example, sphagnum moss, palm fiber or mineral wool:

Hanging the basket or perforated container to the bracket, do not forget that the fastener should be carried out at least at three points of its upper bar, otherwise the suspension will not be stable and the basket may roll over when watered. Watering and feeding orchids, planted in baskets and suspended from brackets fixed in the walls, preferably from above.

After watching this video, you will learn how to grow orchids at home using baskets:

Growing orchids at home is carried out both in ceramic and plastic pots. Ceramic pots have porous walls through which a lot of water evaporates from the substrate.

The roots of epiphytic orchids stretch and stick to the walls of pots in search of a water evaporating surface, it is important for them to periodically dry out, which is provided by the porosity of the clay. But ceramic glazed pots almost do not let air through the walls and by their quality approach plastic pots.

Plastic pots do not allow air through their walls, because there are no pores in them. Gas exchange inside the pot occurs only through the surface of the substrate and the lower drainage holes, which is why moisture remains in plastic pots longer.

Plastic pots can give you the most unpleasant surprise at the moment of a sudden long-term drop in temperature.

When the air temperature is less than 10 ° C in unheated rooms in summer, the substrate in a plastic pot sometimes does not dry for weeks, and the low temperature of the root layer can provoke not only the development of bacterial rot, but also frostbite of root tips. Beginners can take advantage of homemade orchid growing tips below.

Plastic pots of a special design can be a good solution, namely, perforated pots with a lot of holes in the walls. In order for the water to flow well through the drainage holes and not to stagnate, it is necessary to lay a drainage layer on the bottom of any pot, both ceramic and plastic.

It can be any inert material that does not decompose for a long time, does not release salts into the environment and does not absorb water. In order to grow domestic orchids as advised by experienced flower growers, you can choose gravel, pebbles, pumice, broken pottery shards, foam plastic and other materials as drainage.

Drainage from shards placed on the bottom of the pot as follows. First, the drainage hole is closed with a flat shard, all the remaining shards are placed on top of it, but folding them stacks of coins and putting them on the edge.

In order for the drainage layer to function well, it must fill the pot at least a quarter of the volume. Sometimes, when cultivating orchids, light plastic pots with drainage from even lighter foam are used.

In this case, it is necessary to remember about the instability of the pot, the center of gravity of which will inevitably move even higher as the orchid grows in height or during the development of the peduncle.

Neither seedlings, nor adult orchids while caring for orchids when grown at home can not be planted in the pot “for growth”. All plants need to pick pots individually. This is especially true of seedlings sympodially. growing orchidswho usually need an annual transplant of more than one pot size.

To keep part of the collection of orchids in ceramic pots, and some – in plastic I do not recommend, especially to beginner plant growers. Without experience, it is difficult to detect the degree of drying of the substrate and to correctly select the frequency of watering in pots of porous and solid material.

This video shows the basics of growing potted orchids:

There are open and closed blocks.

Open blocks are pieces of bark or plate of some inert material to which orchids are attached.

For orchids planted on open blocks, the roots experience maximum moisture fluctuations, therefore such cultivation is not recommended in rooms with a relative humidity of air less than 60%.

In winter, when the humidity in the rooms is insufficient, it is better to keep the blocks with orchids in the room greenhouse.

Positive results were obtained by planting epiphytic orchids on pieces of bark and round sawn oak 2 — 3 thick. See The dignity of such a block is the long-term cultivation of plants without traumatic transplants.

In order to grow orchids at home as efficiently as possible, an open block can be improved by drilling two rows of holes in it, through which the cord that holds and strengthens the plant (wire or fishing line) is then passed. Planted on such blocks of plants in culture do not experience quite sharp fluctuations in temperature and humidity.

However, this fulfills the condition of good aeration of the root system and complete drying of the roots between waterings – the main requirement for the successful culture of many types of epiphytic orchids.

The secret of growing orchids in this way lies in the fact that the block must be chosen so that it is commensurate with the plant and can withstand its weight without being deformed or turned over in the air. The selected piece of bark should not have too deep cracks, otherwise the block will fall apart directly over them.

In order not to damage the plant, all fastening and hanging parts must be prepared on the block in advance. A plant is planted on a block so that it seems to creep up on it, a fishing line, wire or other reinforcing material is passed between the bases of the shoots in such a way as to secure the rhizome and not damage the renewal buds.

See a photo of how to grow orchids at home in a block way:

Closed blocks are the same plates, but partially covered outside with some moisture-absorbing material. These can be pieces of rhizomes of ferns, coconut fiber, palm fiber, stalks of moss of cuckoo flax, mineral wool, synthetic winterizer and many other things, which, by covering the roots from above, allows them to be partially inside the substrate.

Most of all, this method of cultivation is suitable for small epiphytic orchids, the specific affiliation of which is unknown to you. Having undertaken to grow such plants, you first have to go in many ways “by touch”, overcoming doubts and instantly reacting to the slightest signs of deterioration in the condition of the orchid.

The block-pot culture largely “smoothes out” the flaws allowed by the plant-grower, allowing the orchid to more freely adapt to the new growing conditions.

In addition, some species are difficult to keep in pots due to the small size of the pseudobulb or due to the long rhizome, while others simply find it difficult to adapt to the harsh water bathing characteristic of the block culture.

Well respond to the content in the block-pot culture and many monopodial growing orchids of medium size.

A block (usually a piece of bark) with a plant pre-attached to it is inserted vertically or at a slight angle into the pot and strengthened in it with organic (moss, bark pieces) or inorganic (mineral wool, plastic, shards) materials.

The peculiarity of growing orchids in block-pot culture consists in a special planting technology, which includes the following successive operations. First, a block is cut from a piece of bark or any inorganic material, 1,5 — 2 times the length exceeding the rhizomatous part of an orchid, and the width is able to fit in an existing pot.

Then the plant is attached to the unit so that there is enough space for its further growth. In this case, the rear pseudobulbs are placed close to the lower edge of the block, and the growing shoot is directed vertically upwards. Then the block, together with the plant attached to it, is placed in a pot and strengthened with a fibrous material in front and behind.

It is desirable that the pot for growing an orchid flower was quite heavy, otherwise the center of gravity of the whole structure may shift under the weight of the block and the plant attached to it.

The pot can be made stable with the help of drainage clay shards or stones laid on its bottom. To the top of the block in advance, you can make fasteners, which will be useful later, for the further cultivation of the plant is no longer in the block-pot, but in the block culture.

To better understand the cultivation of orchid cultivation at home, watch this video:

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Caring for Orchids at Home – Smart Tips for Growing Orchids Orchid Bliss

Growing Orchids at Home - PROFESSIONAL Tips

Orchid care at home is the essence of what this website is about. Since most of us aren’t greenhouse growers, I offer a practical guide on how to care for orchids in a typical home environment. 

Caring for Orchids at Home

Although orchid care requirements vary from species to species, there are 7 care aspects that pertain to all orchids. This post is intended as an overall guide but is not specific to any specific variety of orchid. Knowing these 7 tips will help you care for your orchids at home.

Choose an Orchid with the Right Lighting Requirements

Indoor orchid care begins with choosing an orchid with the right light requirements. All orchids need light, but some orchids require almost full sun and while others do best in bright light.

For most orchids an east-facing window is ideal. This way orchids receive morning sun, but not the intensity of a west-facing window. At the same time, a south-facing window can also be ideal. The idea is that you can always take away light by adding a sheer curtain or moving the orchid away from the window.

I to think of orchids on a sort of light requirement spectrum. If you are interested in a particular type of orchid, ask the seller how much light that orchid needs compared to a Cattleya (high light requirements), a Brassia (moderate light requirements) and a Phalaenopsis (low light requirements).

High Light Orchids

For those us caring for orchids at home, it’s important to give these orchids as much diffused light as possible. A south-facing window with a sheer curtain is ideal.

  • Cattleya
  • Cymbidium
  • Dendrobium

Cattleyas, the quintessential orchid, have high light requirements

Cymbidium orchids have high light requirements. This is a link for a Cymbidium without such extreme temperature requirements. For Cymbidium online buying options, click here.

Dendrobium orchids have high light requirements. Dendrobiums are a diverse variety of orchid. If you’d to give one a try, I’ve linked to an easy beginner Australian Dendrobium kingianum. Another a personal favorite Dendrobium Roy Tokunaga – another easy grower.

Moderate Light Orchids

Several hours of bright light will do the trick for these orchids. South, east, or west windows will work as long as the orchids are protected from direct light.

The Brassia is an easy to grow orchid that blooms and reblooms nobody’s business. BONUS: this orchid has a lovely fragrance. For more information on buying Brassia orchids online, click here.

The fragrance from an Oncidium will fill a room. Some varieties will bloom more than once a year. For chocolate-smelling flowers try, ‘Sharry Baby’ and for a vanilla fragrance, try ‘Twinkle’.

Low Light Orchids

Any window will do for these orchids as long as they are protected from direct light. If their leaves become discolored from too much light bring them a few more inches away from the window or hang a sheer curtain.

If you don’t have a lot of light, grow a Paphiopedilum These easy to grow orchids don’t mind repotting and blooms once a year and many varieties have lovely dappled leaves. To check out online buying options for a Paphiopedilum, click here.

The glorious Phalaenopsis is the gateway drug to orchids. If you’d to learn more about purchasing Phalaenopsis orchids online, click here.

Above I have described ideal light conditions. For the record, I care for most of my orchids in my home in an east-facing window. I have huge eaves over my other windows, so my light is best on the east side. I just place orchids that require more light closer to the glass and those with lesser light requirements farther away.

My point is that even when conditions aren’t ideal you can make it work. I have a friend that grows moth orchids in a south-facing window in her classroom. Because another large building is across from her classroom her low light orchid does just fine in a south-facing window without a sheer curtain.

While we’re talking about light, I will add that most orchids can be grown under artificial light. When caring for orchids at home, don’t let lack of light stop you from growing orchids. This is the grow light system I use and my orchids have rebloomed and thrived with these lights.

Control the Temperature and Air Circulation

Two orchid care tips that go hand in hand are temperature and air circulation. My first recommendation is to choose orchids that thrive, you and me, in the 70s (F).

The trick is that many orchids temperature drops in the evening. My suggestion is to crack a window if it’s not too cold outside.

Air circulation is very important. Not only does it help to prevent disease, but it also helps to regulate the temperature. Orchids near a window can get too hot or too cold. Thankfully, a fan will help to moderate the temperature.

I wish I had a ceiling fan, but I don’t. Instead, I use this small and quiet Chill Out fan. I set the fan to it’s lowest setting and give my orchids a nice gentle breeze and they feel they’re in paradise.

How to Water Your Orchid

Most orchids die because they’ve been over-watered. Learning to properly water is especially important when caring for orchids indoors.

Although water requirements vary, generally thin leafed orchids need water more often than thick-leaved orchids. Also, dormant orchids need less frequent watering.

You will know if your orchid is dormant because you won’t notice any leaf or root growth, or any flowers. The orchid is simply resting, gearing up for the next growth and flowering cycle.

This is how I water: first, I check the potting media of each orchid before watering it. If the media is still damp, I don’t water. This is especially true for orchids planted in sphagnum moss because moss really retains water. If your orchid has a plastic inner pot, examine the pot for condensation.

After a while, you will get into a watering rhythm. Here are a few tips that will help you while finding your orchids watering sweet spot:

  • Orchids do not to sit in water. This is especially true for dendrobiums.
  • By the same token, miltoniopsis (pansy orchid) and paphiopedilum (lady slipper) do not to dry out.
  • Don’t water because it’s watering day, first check the potting medium. If it’s still wet, wait.
  • More orchids are killed by overwatering than by underwatering.

Provide Some Humidity

I understand that you are ly caring for your orchids at home, not in a greenhouse. That’s me too. While providing adequate humidity is important, if growing in your home, it is equally important not to over humidify.

We want to grow orchids, not mold. I have had the most success using a humidifier and a fan. The humidifier provides the humidity and fan helps prevent disease and mold.

Sad to say, but I have tried humidity trays without any results. I know they are popular, but I would be lying if I said they have raised the humidity levels around my orchids.

I use a humidistat to track my humidity levels. For all my orchids, I try to keep my humidity levels at 50%. That’s on the high end for what is recommended for a home, and the low end for what is recommended for orchids. It’s not perfect, it’s a compromise.

Fertilize Your Orchid Sparingly

Next, when it comes to fertilizing orchids, less is more. Salt build-up, the carrier for the minerals found in fertilizer, is really bad for orchids.

The common refrain for fertilizing orchids is weekly weakly. One week in four, or even 2 weeks in 4 do not use any fertilizer. This will help to flush out the salts in the potting media.

Be sure to dilute the recommended dosage by 1/2 to 1/4 strength.

Decoding Fertilizer Labels

  •  1st number refers to nitrogen.
    • Promotes healthy leaves.
    • Use when you see new leaves begin to grow.
    • Recommendation:  9-3-6
  • 2nd number is for phosphorous.
    • Encourages flowers.
    • Use before the flower buds appear. For example, if I wanted to fertilize for flowers in a winter-blooming cymbidium, I would begin fertilizing at the end of fall before the flower spike had begun to grow.
    •  Recommendation:  3-12-6.
    • Note: once the orchid is prepared to bloom, return to a balanced fertilizer.
  • 3 number stands for potassium.
    • Supports a strong root system, including the overall well-being of your orchids.  Potassium also helps to fight pests and disease and bounce back from unfavorable conditions such as cold and drought conditions.
    • Use when roots are forming.
    • Recommendation: 0-0-3.

RePotting Is Important

Finally, when caring for orchids at home, many people wonder if they need to re-pot. They do! I have a full post about when to repot orchids and how to repot orchids.

To get you started, here is a simple overview to let you know if the time is right.

Do Pot:

  • When the flowers have all died.
  • Before the soil breaks down. A good quality soil should last 1-2 years.
  • If you have purchased a new orchid and you want to check out the root system.
  • If you see new roots growing.
  • If your orchid is growing in sphagnum moss and you’d to switch to a better potting medium

Don’t Pot:

  • If your orchid is still flowering.
  • A Dendrobium. Only repot a Dendrobium if you absolutely have to. They do not their roots to be disturbed.

To discover the tools I use to pot my orchids, click here.

Indoor Orchid Care In a Nutshell

There you have it, a basic guide to caring for orchids at home. Many people think that orchids are difficult to grow. The truth is that they are easy, especially if they are watered correctly. Comment below to share your orchid concerns and successes.

I wish you the best in caring for these beauties!


Growing Orchids at Home

Growing Orchids at Home - PROFESSIONAL Tips

Becky Brinkman, the Fuqua Orchid Center Manager for the Atlanta Botanical Garden, shares tips for selecting healthy orchid plants, growing orchids at home, and daily care of orchids.

It’s irresistible, that beautiful orchid in the store—lush and colorful with blooms nodding on long, arching stems. Wouldn’t it look gorgeous in your home? Or you receive and orchid as a gift, and its long-lived blossoms promise weeks of pleasure.

How do you know if it’s a good match for your plant-tending skills? Orchids grow on every continent except Antarctica, and they’re even found growing above the Arctic Circle. In a plant family with so many homes, it shouldn’t be too much trouble to find at least one variety that will grow in your home.

Becky Brinkman, the Fuqua Orchid Center Manager for the Atlanta Botanical Garden, says growing orchids should come easily for those accustomed to handling cut flowers.

“People who arrange flowers tend to be good observers and they’ve developed a sensitivity to visual clues. That’s the most important factor in growing orchids, or any plant really,” says Becky. She suggests the key to success is starting off with a healthy, well-grown plant.

Recognizing Healthy Orchid Roots

“The root system is the most important part of a healthy plant,” Becky says. “An orchid plant can lose a lot of root mass while sitting around waiting for a purchaser, and still look pretty good,” she cautions.

“If you don’t want to un-pot the plant right there in the shop, how can you tell if it is well-rooted? Just wiggle it,” she explains. “Take the base of the plant between your thumb and forefinger, and give it a tweak.

Does it feel loose in the pot? If so, put it back down and select another plant.”

The condition of the leaves themselves is also important. “It’s not uncommon to see older leaves turning yellow, especially if the plant has been flowering,” says Becky. “But you don’t want shriveled leaves. That’s a sign you’ve lost a lot of root mass through over-watering, then the plant can’t take up water and the leaves start to shrivel.”

Types of Orchids

Just a sampling of the extraordinary variety of flowers in the orchid family

How to Make an Orchid Bloom

To encourage your orchid to bloom, Becky has a couple of suggestions.

“First, check out the soil mix and repot if necessary. Mass-produced orchids are often grown in a peat moss-based mix. That’s great for orchid growers; they can produce plants quickly and cheaply. But it doesn’t work well for home growers,” she says.

“Once your orchid has finished blooming, you can increase your chances of future success if you repot it in an all-purpose orchid mix fir bark. Not pine bark—that would kill it.” Becky warns.

“You can buy good orchid mixes at most garden centers,  by the scoop or by the bag.

“As with most flora, light is the key important factor in re-blooming your orchids. Give your orchid the light it needs to thrive and you’re more ly to get new blooms.”

Moderate Light and Low Light Orchids

This is usually the case with a north-facing window. If you hold your hand over the plant and it doesn’t cast a shadow, you’ve got low light. The classic orchid for this setting is the phalaenopsis or moth orchid. Paphiopedilums or slipper orchids, and Miltoniopsis, the pansy orchid, grow well in north or east windows.

Medium Light and High Light Orchids

This intensity of light is usually found in southern or west-facing windows. Dendrobriums, the dancing ladies, and oncidiums are good here. Cattleyas, the corsage orchid, will also do well with a couple of hours of direct sun through a window.

Daily Care of Orchids

Finally, there is the daily care of your plant. In this case, watering calls for restraint. “Most tropical orchids are epiphytic, and the quickest way to kill them is too much water,” Becky reminds us.

In other words, in their natural habitat, orchids live “on the surface of plants” (which is one definition of epiphytic) tree trunks and branches, and their roots are not adapted for soil.

The need well-drained potting medium that will allow them to shed water the way they would if they were up in a tree.

“When I’m watering,” says Becky, “I look at the soil mix. The color changes when the plant is dry. If you’re watering your orchid once a day or every other day, you’re probably watering too much.” Orchids are also light feeders, so a general, all-purpose fertilizer developed at one-quarter strength every two weeks is plenty.

Growing orchids can become an addiction. For good information on orchid culture and sources, Becky recommends the American Orchid Society’s website. She also s, “a great Internet orchid encyclopedia, where you can see the extraordinarily large and diverse family of orchids.”

By Conne Ward-Cameron

More Tropical Flavor


Growing Orchids at Home – PROFESSIONAL Tips

Growing Orchids at Home - PROFESSIONAL Tips

© Nikolai CHROMOV

Orchids – great flowers! It seems that such a miracle can not grow without the daily thorough care and simply die a few days after the purchase on any window-sill.

However, this is not entirely true, more precisely, it is not at all true.

It is enough to follow the basic rules of caring for them – and for many years orchids will delight you with lush flowering, which sometimes lasts for months.

Planting orchid

In garden stores and in special departments of supermarkets, special orchid soil is sold. They are also planted in wood chips and bark.

Orchid roots are quite thick, curly, when planting it is simply not necessary to try to shove all of them into a container: if a part sticks out, then it only benefits the orchids.

See also: How to make a substrate for orchids (epiphytic and terrestrial)


You shouldn’t be bothered here: the Oriental orientation window-sill is fine, as orchids love light, but they don’t particularly midday, and therefore hot and direct sunlight. If there is no other way out, how to put an orchid on the south window-sill, then from about 11.00 to 15.00 it will need to be tinted.

In winter, when the day is very short, there may not be enough light for orchids, so you can additionally install additional lighting lamps and turn them on for a couple of hours after sunset, placing at least 30 cm from the orchid.

Orchid transplant at home video step by step. Phalaenopsis orchid transplant after purchase.


In summer, as well as in winter, when the heating is turned on and the air begins to dry out dramatically, there may not be enough moisture.

Ideally, it should be between 60 and 75%, and this moisture is useful not only for orchids, but also for us humans.

Therefore, it is enough to install an electronic moisture meter in the room and monitor the level of moisture in the air and, if necessary, increase it.


humidity of the air is possible not only by spraying the orchid and the air around it from the spray gun, but also by an elementary installation of small narrow water pans on the heating batteries. In the summer, these bowls can be put on the southern windowsills and periodically pour water into them.

The optimum moisture content of the substrate (soil) is the most important and difficult. Professionals advise to grow orchids only in transparent pots and monitor the condition of the substrate through the walls.

Especially you need to pay attention to the condensate inside the pot: if it disappeared or there was very little of it, the pot itself was pretty relieved, the roots got a silvery shade, then it's time to water it.


The best option is the method of immersion in a bowl or other container filled with distilled water, heated to a temperature of 25-30 degrees. The container should be of such depth that the pot could sink there completely. Thus, the substrate is sufficiently saturated with moisture for 20-25 minutes, and the moisture will last for a week and a half.


The vast majority of those orchids that are commercially available live well in suitable conditions for us, that is, at a temperature of 20-23 degrees. If you managed to find orchids that need coolness, you will have to create it, but then it’s comfortable to exist in the same room with an orchid that, say, loves temperatures in 8-12 degrees above zero and no more, will be difficult.


Orchid leaflets turned yellow. Perhaps the orchid does not have enough moisture, which means that the number of waterings should be increased. Or maybe not enough light, which means that the plant needs to be moved to another place where there is more light, or to install additional lighting lamps.

Buds on the shoots turn yellow and fall off, they do not form new flower stalks. The most ly cause is a lack of light, although it is possible that the air in the room is too dry, there is a draft or … if you keep the orchid in the kitchen. Yes, the presence of vegetables and fruits near the orchid can lead to such undesirable consequences.

Orchid leaves are limp as if devoid of turgor. This may not be due to a lack, as many people think, but from an excess of moisture in combination with irregular irrigation. To avoid this unpleasant phenomenon, try to water the orchids not when the leaves begin to dry out, but about once every two weeks.

Leaves may wither from the small size of the pot or because all the roots are immersed in the ground and do not go out, do not breathe.

Yes, in the latter case, they simply do not have enough air: do not forget that the orchid usually does not grow in the soil under natural conditions, therefore you should not bury all the roots in it.

Roots in the ground (for example, in wood chips) rot – a transplant can solve the problem, but it can happen because of an excess of air moisture in combination with low light and high soil moisture.


Orchids adore the fresh air in the room, so do not be afraid of ventilation.

It is desirable to spend them in the summer, autumn and spring at least once every two days, but not to allow the formation of drafts.

It is undesirable to ventilate the room for a long time in winter; you can slightly open the window and install a fan near it so that the fresh air spreads faster around the room.



Few who, considering in the orchid flower shop, do not admire them. And he is going to buy these really beautiful flowers, but the “well-wisher” who will cool this desire is sure to say something : “They gave me an orchid, but she died, which I never watered!” If I hear this, I immediately interfere in the conversation. Therefore, I say, and died that they watered it as a normal plant.

And the orchid needs its own approach.

But in general, I must say, this is not at all a “culture for the elect”; it is very simple to grow it.

For beginners, I recommend phalaenopsis as the first orchie.

Do not try to buy exquisite hybrids: yellow and mottled, especially variegated – they are more difficult to care for and may die or not bloom for a long time, as a result, it is possible that your interest in growing orchids will disappear.

It is better to buy phalaenopsis with flowers of simple colors – white, pink. These varieties do not require any particular trouble from the host plant and at the same time bloom long and beautiful.

Next in the series of unpretentious and popular orchids, I would call the double complexed Cattleya hybrids. This is a compact plant height 10-25 cm with fragrant flowers, collected in a brush on 3-10 pieces. In the indoor environment, they bloom from early spring to late autumn, from one to several times.

The conditions of maintenance of different types of orchids are different, but there are some general points: all orchids are very sensitive to the substrate and watering.

my own long experience, I advise you to use a substrate of pine bark (from a dead tree, red-brown in color, without inclusions of resin) and charcoal.

Shred pieces of bark and coal to a size of approximately 0,5-1 cm and mix in the ratio 1: 1 – this is the case if there is high humidity in the room where the orchid grows.

If the humidity in the room is low, then on the 2 part of the pine bark, take the 1 part of the charcoal.

Plant the plant in a pot with a large number of holes so that the water does not linger in it and the roots breathe freely. Do not press the substrate, it should be loose.

Water your orchid as the substrate dries from spring to autumn about once a week, and from the Ossetia – even less often. In no case do not allow the substrate to be overwetted, it should dry out during the day after watering.

When watering, immerse the pot in a basin with a slightly warm Won 15-20 minutes or spill the pot in the shower.

The main rule: it is better to dry orchids than to pour. They will not die from overdrying, but from excessive moisture – necessarily, and this is the main secret of growing all orchids.

Watering in some way can be replaced by regular spraying. If you are not sure that you need to water, then it is better to once again spray the plants and the substrate around it.

Orchids love light, but in spring and summer protect them from the bright sun. It is undesirable that the air temperature exceeds 35 °, this may affect the subsequent flowering of plants.

Orchids are delicate plants; nevertheless, planting material carries the journey in postal parcels perfectly. In dry form, it can persist for a long time. After receiving the plants, plant them in a substrate prepared in advance and place the pot where it will be damp enough, and the light – diffused.


See also: Precious orchids: photo and care


Orchids at home: festive bloom and 5 years of passion for them.


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